January 28, 2016

Good morning, Due to the snow on Tuesday and Tuesday night it was way to wet to get into the garden to harvest. Because of this there will not be Friday deliveries. Sorry for this inconvenience but Mother nature does have the last say in these things. Barring another weather event we will be back to normal next week.

Most all the beds are prepared for spring planting. I have one bed that I need to add compost to but I also need to wait for my compost to finish this should be in the next week or two. This bed will complete spring prep for planting.

It is a good feeling that I have finally made a full swath through the garden hoeing down the mustard. If left to itself it would have taken over. I especially wanted to get all the plants that were beginning to bloom.

NOAA and the Farmers Almanac are saying February and March will be cool (and moist). It would be nice if it were rain and not snow (especially not ice). I so hope to out plant my first toms in February. Last year prudence delayed this until the second week of March. Time will tell.

Last year I harvested some mature scapes off of my garlic crop. I seeded some in a pot inside the house. I actually got some to sprout. Boy howdy if I were to have done this in a bed outside, I surely would have pulled them because they look just like grass. I went ahead and sowed the rest to see if I can increase my garlic crop. It takes 1 to 2 years from bulbets (scapes broken apart). My over wintered onion plants are looking real nice for the first of March transplanting. The garlic is 3 to 6 inches tall and ready for spring growth.

It is a hope of mine to have lettuce all year. I have gone from a whole plant harvest to a leaf harvest. If I can get a green onion bed established, I also plan to harvest the tops and let them regrow. It is much easier for a plant to regrow a leaf than to grow a whole new plant. This is especially true during the winter. I have done both of these crops on a small scale as a leaf harvest and have been very pleased. I am in the process of ramping both of these crops up a notch.

Knock on wood this years garden is beginning to shape up very nicely. Strange thoughts for it is only January.

January 25, 2016

avalanche column

January 8, 2016

Deb and I moved from Central Oregon to here in 2003. Central Oregon is an arid environment and is very different from Western Oregon which is very wet. In a lot of respects Central Oregon is very similar to here just only less so. Less intense sun, less intense heat, less extremely low humidity, but the rainfall is very comparable. But one thing up there that doesn't happen down here with regularity is winter.

Central Oregon taught me much about micro climate adaption in order to have a growing season.  The growing season was maybe three to four months long. Down here, with modest protection, it can be year around. What Central Oregon didn't teach me was about the onslaught of critters that think they have first “dibs” on the garden. The real winters kept insects at bay.

Over the course of a number of columns I will review my extremely steep learning curve about unwelcome garden “visitors” and how I have learned to control them. Control is a key word. If you eradicate the pests, there is nothing to keep a resident population of the “good” guys around. 

Something I always ask myself is the damage cosmetic or detrimental to the crop. Each person will have different tolerances for what they deem acceptable damage or infestation levels. I like to say if you do see some insect munching, THIS IS a “proof of purchase” of organic culture and the veggie is fit for human consumption.

  Some insecticides have a history of originally being formulated as humanicides for fighting wars. Only after the wars ended and all the stockpiles had been inventoried, that someone came up with the brainchild of repurposing these humanicides by diluting them and using it on food crops for human consumption. Really?

I will go over the gallery of critters on my most wanted list. Of course this list is not all inclusive, but the list gets added to as “guests” enter “stage right”. I will also mention what organic controls I have been using and how successful they have been.

In the spirit of not “reinventing the wheel”, I would love to hear about anybody’s treatments for dealing with their own “special” guests. Let me know if you would like me to pass them on.

Next week I will cover my “pest” control methods for the various critters that I have encountered and I will refer back to these methods as I discuss my “friends”

Questions? I can be contacted at markdirtfarmer@gmail.com. Or more garden notes at redwagonfarm.blogsot.com 

January 21, 2016

Good morning, It is interesting how this year I have not had the same problems I did last year with starting my spring seedlings. I have changed a few things, and for the better it appears. My mortality is less than 5%. very acceptable levels.

For a few years now, I have used soil blocks which are a very good way to propagate seedlings. I am thinking these would work better in more humid areas of the country. These are a self contained medium that does not have a container other than the pressed block. Because of this it is very difficult to keep them evenly moist so that the seed can germinate. Because I do not use full spectrum grow lights the seedling get quite leggy before they develop secondary leaves and potted on. This is the stage where most of my mortality would occur, from germination to the secondary leaf stage.

This year I did a trial of both seed blocks and mass germination in single serve yogurt containers that had drainage holes in the bottom. I only partially filled these containers with soil and mass seeded them. After seeding them I used a clear plastic cover that fit right on top of a group of seeded yogurt containers. This did help keep the humidity levels up. When the seeds did germinate they were not as far from the lights as the soil blocks, thus they were shorter and more stocky as they developed their secondary leaves. At this point I removed the seedling thicket from the yogurt container and carefully transplanted single seedlings to a small cups to become well rooted. Once they were well rooted I potted them on to an 8 ounce cup.

I have been able to keep my growing room warmer this year. It has maintained 60 degrees and above. Last year it was below 60 degrees. These cooler temps is where dampening off disease develops. This was the source of my mortality. Seedlings from germination to secondary leaf development are the most vulnerable. I did get a seedling heat mat that I used through a cool period but soon found that the seedlings were near 90 plus degrees. This too can be a problem so I discontinued its use and the room has maintained the 60+ degrees. I plan to get a thermostat for this heating mat so that I can more closely regulate it's temperature. I use the older style of florescent lights and these do generate a good amount of heat when they are on. It is when these lights are off that the need for the heating mat is most needed. A thermostat would remedy this problem.

So my observations of soil block versus yogurt cups shows that both work but I was able to grow a better seedling in the yogurt cup even though the seedlings needed to be divided and bear rooted to be potted on.

My first planting of toms, there will be fully stocked beds. This is the same with my chili plantings too. It is nice to not have had to do multiple reseeding s to get a stocked bed. It is comforting to be out of room under my grow lights. I will be starting my second planting of toms soon.

I have three more beds to turn and grade to be ready for spring planting. I hope that I can plant my first bed of toms the middle of February this year. Last year there was ice and snow clean up to the middle of March and thus all of my plantings were delayed. I do not like to plant into a cold front, it just would not be prudent!!

It does look like this gardening year is shaping up quite nicely!!

Night time lows have moderated some and the temporary greenhouses are keeping the temps well above freezing. I do see a modest uptick in greens growth with lettuce leading the pack. I hope to be listing abundant greens soon, that is if Mother Nature cooperates.

The sun choke harvest continues and have used a pickled sun choke recipe. We will have them at market for sampling and to purchase. They are $7.00 per pint.

Janurary 18, 2016

avalanche column

Dec 31, 2015

Folks will ask how much would this greenhouse cost? Most of the parts can be sourced locally. Nancy at Brown Dog Gardens has 10 foot by 12 foot frost blanket for $18. Johnson Feed has 10 pound rolls of 9 gauge wire for $17.50. You will need some heavy duty wire cutters. And Territorial Seed Company (territorialseed.com) has 10 foot by 16 foot greenhouse film for $47.95 plus shipping. I think Nancy is looking into a source for the greenhouse film too.

Doing a search on the internet Hobby greenhouses start at around $100. The least expensive ones look to me as though one West Texas “breeze” would destroy them.

I would like to reiterate that this green house would be for growing veggies through the winter. It would not be practical to start seedlings in. For starting seedlings I use a light table in one of my back rooms. For me this works very well.

Next week I will be starting a series on the insects that I have encountered in my garden and what I use to control them. I feel this is a good time so that you can become familiar with the more problematic critters that would like to dine in your garden. This may be a repeat but I find that repetition is one of the best ways to learn.

It is critical that you identify the pest. Some insects might appear to be a “bad” bug but in reality are beneficial. The larvae of the hover fly are one. The adult fly is a pollinator but the larva (maggot) resides on the bottom of leaves, it is not a pretty bug but it devours aphids. This guy can be killed without realizing the good that it does.

Proper identification allows one to learn about the bug and how to best control them. Control is desired, complete eradication does not leave food for beneficial insects to feed on and stay in the garden. This is a delicate ballet of good guys and bad guys.

For Identification, I like to have a book that can be easily taken into the garden. Once identified, I use the internet to learn everything I can to combat it. This has a means of reinforcing the critter into you memory. My garden bug book is “The Texas Bug Book” by Howard Garrett and C. Malcolm Beck, published by the University of Texas press, Austin. It is available at Front Street Books. A little side Howard Garrett is known as “the Dirt Doctor”.

This is not an all-inclusive book but is pretty well covers the subject. This book also includes beneficial insects too. This is very important so that you do not “shoot yourself in the foot” so to speak. Knowing this you can encourage the good and discourage the bad.

Happy gardening!   

Questions? I can be contacted at markdirtfarmer@gmail.com. Or more garden notes at redwagonfarm.blogsot.com 

 

January 14, 2016

Good morning, even with added protection with the greenhouses I am not being able to keep things robustly growing. Night time lows are still dropping into the forties and high thirties. These are not temps that are conducive to fast growth. There is moderate growth , considering most mornings are in the mid to lower twenties. I hope to be able to fill all orders, please place your orders and I will see what I can do. I hope to see a mid February warming that normally happens but it might be mid March again this year, just like last. Last years real warming didn't happen until May/ June because we had peas all the way into May last year, a real sign of a cool spring. Oh but this too will pass. I am ready for April though!!!

I managed to get some of the Asian greens sprayed with cold pressed neem oil and considering the state of their existence ( half eaten by saw fly larvae), are showing signs of recovery. I hope to get the rest of the bed sprayed soon. It still does surprise me that there are insects that are active at so cool of conditions. I have not seen this years cold weather bug nor last years anywhere except under fabric. This could be the case like with aphids, the fabric creates the perfect environment. I never did identify the larvae last year so I never could see what the adult looked like. Considering the size of the larvae, the adults must have been rather small but none the less very prolific. This years saw flies I am sure got in when I was trying to attract lady bugs to the boc choi. For some reason aphids just love boc choi.. Aphids take an affinity to all of the mustard family but just absolutely adore boc choi. I just need to keep boc choi in a bed by itself because of this”love” affair.

With all of the recent moisture, the beds are just about at a perfect moisture content. The soil is easily dug and is also friable. It rakes out perfect for a seed bed or for transplants.

NOAA is predicting this winter to be pretty close to the same scenario as last year. A cool moist spring and a warm to hot dry summer. Next winter is predicted to be warmer and drier than this one. The winter moisture is very nice. Not having ice storms would be nice too. If this were to happen, it just might be the perfect set up for my temporary greenhouses to really shine. I was pleased over the weekend with sunny and cool weather (40's -50's), I removed the fabric from over the film and all of the beds heated up to the mid 70's.

Outside temperatures in the 60's and 70's warms the greenhouses up to the mid to upper 80's. Even though we have had some chilly nights into the 20's, as long as there was sunshine the previous day, they do not drop much below 40. There is enough fabric so I can put an extra layer over these greenhouses. Why I haven't done this is one of those mystery’s that evades me. This will change. There is the potential of 8 degrees of heat storage (the frost protection of 1 layer of agribon 70).

Recently someone asked me how butternut squash will last. I begin my harvest somewhere around the first of July and finish my harvest around frost. I have had butternuts last at least to April quite easily. Storage should be in a cool room on the floor if you do not have plans to eat them right away.

The easiest way to cook is to put it dry in a crock pot on low. Once you can push a fork in it, it is done. The flesh can then be easily removed. This can then be used for pies, soup, muffins... or it can be bagged up and frozen for a later date. If you want the flesh to be more whole and not a puree, you will need to peel and then cut it into cubes. Here is one of Debs and mine favorite cubed butternut squash recipe's . Tofu or tempe could be used to replace the sausage for a vegetarian dish.

Liberian Pumpkin (butternut)

2-3 cups butternut (peeled and chopped into 1 in pieces)

onion chopped

hot chili peppers chopped or hot pepper sauce to taste

in large saucepan saute in 2 tbls of oil until onion is translucent. Cover and cook until butternut is done (10 min)

1 cup broth any kind and cook 10 min

1 cup browned sausage

salt and pepper to taste

serve over noodles or brown rice.

Enjoy!!

I can be reached at markdirtfarmer@gmail.com or go to http://redwagonfarm.blogspot.com/ Happy gardening!!!

Januaray 11, 2016

avalanche column

Dec24,2015

Why the need for a temporary greenhouse. Temporary means that it can be deconstructed when the need is gone. This is very significant and the reasons will follow.

I do not feel that permanent greenhouses are a very good use of money or space in Far west Texas. There are exceptions, but for growing veggies I do not think so.

Where we live what I would call greenhouse season is very short, from the middle of November to the middle of February. During this time frame there would only be a need to heat the greenhouse. Before and after this time frame daytime highs would necessitate cooling. I remind folks of last week’s column when the film only bed encountered an 80 degree day. It got to be over 120 inside.

I have noted that winter time (air) temperatures do have wide swings but the winter time (soil) temperatures very seldom drop below the 40’s. It is important to also note that plant growth (especially winter veggies) resume growth at 50 degrees. Ten degrees is not the huge amount of heat to generate.

Most winters have sunny days even if they are cold. Harvesting this warmth with a passive greenhouse is really quite easy, excess warmth heats the soil. I have also noted that soil warmth is retained by the fabric during the night when there is a freeze. This harvested warmth keeps the plants underneath from freezing. I have also mentioned that fabric does not generate heat but conserves it, hence the need for the greenhouse film. Like with the sun from a south facing window and it is cold outside, the room gets quite warm.

If we can get the soil temperature up to at least 50 degrees (60 degrees would be better), there would be some amazing growth underneath the cover. There would be NO energy input other than just the sun.

Another problem with greenhouses especially if you are growing in the ground there is the potential for soil pathogens or insect infestations. Being able to remove the greenhouse and then expose the ground to the elements takes care of this problem.

Greenhouses would become a blast furnace during the summer unless you were to provide some kind of cooling or else they would be left unused for a large portion of the year.

So I have high hopes that the experiment that I performed two winters ago can be replicated. If this comes to pass I have a lot of optimism that my winter gardening will be taken to a whole new level. This could change my harvest quantities during the winter like the drip system did for my summer veggies.

For better or for worse stay tuned for an early spring up date (of course if this winter is sunny).

Questions? I can be contacted at markdirtfarmer@gmail.com. Or more garden notes at redwagonfarm.blogspot.com

January 7, 2016

Good morning, It was really cool to see that the peas that I had germinated and planted about a week before Christmas have emerged. In fact I had to wait for the snow to melt before I could check on them. Not sure of the percentage but with spot checks I have made, the number of emerged plants does look most promising. It will be interesting to see if they catch up to the peas that were started back in October. It sure looks like peas, if they are given their druthers, will take cold soil over warm to hot soil. Yes it looks like I will have two stocked pea beds for spring harvest.

So many times when making an internet search, the hard part is asking the right question with the right wording. Well I finally did! This is in regards to the critter that is munching on my Asian greens. They are saw fly larvae. The Saw fly is a huge diverse species of insect. It really is not a fly but is closer related to the bee family. Although they do not have a stinger. As far as I can tell the whole species feeds on foliage when it is in the larvae stage of growth. The larvae take on many forms depending on the individual species. They can be just like slugs (slimy and all) with different transformations all the way to the appearance of caterpillars. A very interesting Family so to speak. The caterpillar form would give you the impression that the use of Bt. would work on them. But since they are not related to moths and butterflies it has no effect on them. Highly refined oil sprays and Cold pressed neem will work on them. Most oils take an aversion to being sprayed during cool to cold weather, it can gel in the sprayer (not good). I would like to use the neem because there would be two ways of attaching them: first the oil contact and then the hormones in the neem oil that the remaining larvae would feed on and then die.

I suspect that I let these little buggers into the bed on a sunny day when I was trying to attract some lady bugs to feed on some aphids that were attracted to the boc choi. Ah yes I have mentioned it on many occasion be careful that your exclusion does not become an inclusion. I have done just that. I am hoping for a warmer day so that I can spray them. There already is a fair amount of plant mortality and there just might be nothing to spray (foliage that is) when I can. I do have some alternate crops to go into this bed if this should happen.

Normally winter gardening is bug free except for aphids. That just has not been the case this winter or last. It just surprises me that there are insect larvae that are active at or below freezing. Just gotta love that learning curve. This is a prime case where a positive ID is critical. Until I made a positive ID the munching on the leaves left me with the impression it was a beetle or a caterpillar. Not seeing any scat gave me doubts that it was a caterpillar and not seeing beetles just added to the confusion. It appears that even at a very small size (not readily seen by the naked eye) they can wreak havoc on a plant. AHH but I know this bug now!!!

I hope to start harvesting the Sun chokes next week. The soil is a bit wet to do so for this week. I keep checking on the Brussels sprouts and hope to be harvesting them soon. I need to check my small crop of parsnips too.

January 4, 2016

avalanche column

December 18, 2015

It was a couple years back that I played with the combined use of greenhouse film and Agribon 70 fabric.

Over the years I have found that fabric protects from cold and also lowers day time highs. My thoughts were to create a temporary green house that would not need to be vented on sunny days during the winter. Most winters the sunny days coincide with windy days. Opening a greenhouse on such a day, you could find the cover in Midland or Mexico depending on the wind direction. It was important to do this without having to vent the structure.

I tried three different configurations to see if this idea was plausible. In order to have something to compare it too I used a bed of chard that was covered like I normally do, with 2 layers of agribon 19, (Control). I used a remote thermometer to record temps.

The three beds were: just greenhouse film (only),   Agribon 70 under greenhouse film (under), and Agribon 70 over greenhouse film (over). On a cold night (11.8 degrees), both the only and under recorded temperatures in the teens and the over was in the twenties. Then on a 60 degree day both the only and under were in the upper 90’s and the over was in the mid 80’s. When the outside temperature got into the 80’s both the under and only were up to 120+ degrees and the over was around 100.

I only entered the structures to harvest and water, otherwise it remained covered. Only 2 of the beds were planted with chard, the control and over bed. Before I started my experiment the over bed was exposed to severe freezing weather and did not look very good. It looked better after it was pruned and cleaned up. Every two weeks I harvested the control and the over bed. I harvested both of these beds on the same day and weighed the harvested quantities.  .

The results were really quite interesting. The first 2 weeks more was harvested out of the control than the over, but I was seeing re-growth in the over bed. By the second two weeks the beds were very similar in harvest quantities, and then by the third two week period the over bed was out producing the control. Shortly after the third two week period is when the 80 degree day occurred and I stopped the experiment.

To say the least I was very pleased with the results. Last year I was going to try some more beds to see if I could replicate my results. In order for passive greenhouses to work, you need sun and last winter remained quite cloudy.

This year is looking better. The day time highs are getting into the 60 degree range with the nights in the 30’s and 40’s, and not to mention abundant sunshine!

Next  week why the need.

 Good luck and happy gardening!!! Questions? I can be contacted at markdirtfarmer@gmail.com. Or more garden notes at redwagonfarm.blogsot.com